![how to install transmission kickdown cable how to install transmission kickdown cable](https://cdn3.volusion.com/ekpxr.gqnzw/v/vspfiles/photos/282706958110-2.jpg)
Was really pretty easy and I definitely recommend trying it this way instead of removing the filter and valve body. Slip cable into slot and let it rotate back to its normal position (the pulley groove piece is spring loaded). Then to fit the cable end into the pulley groove I rotated the pulley around until the slot was facing me (looking up from laying down under the truck). I oiled the o ring just above the 4 tabs before installing. Poke the trans-side through the hole in the trans and make sure the 4 tabs snap/click into place.
![how to install transmission kickdown cable how to install transmission kickdown cable](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/owI6VwooeJE/sddefault.jpg)
Routed it from the throttle-side then down to the trans. Installing the new one was not much more difficult. After the tabs are broken off and you've made sure they didn't fall inside the trans somewhere, then the cable just slides out front the top. Then I carefully broke off the 4 plastic tabs on the housing of the cable where it goes through the transmission case. I just removed the pan, unhooked the cable end from the pulley groove piece it hooks to. The FSM says to remove the valve body and drop the trans a bit I guess to get better access to the cable. I was able to fairly easily replace the cable without removing the trans filter or valve body. Best I can gather is that because the cable was stuck at WOT, the trans thought the engine was at WOT all the time, and thus delayed the upshifting until close to redline. Replaced it today and test drive and the trans shifted correctly and on time!! I was so stoked that an $80 cable fixed it and that I didn't have to rebuild or replace the trans.Īs for specifics on the cable problem, I noticed the kickdown cable was stuck in the WOT position. I was hopeful, but definitely not certain, that the late upshifting was caused by the cable. I had done some reading on the kickdown cable back when the trans first started acting up and didn't check it until now. Ordered a new cable and hoped replacing it would solve the problem. Had rusted enough inside the housing that the cable/wire rope started to fray. Removed cable and still no movement! Cut cable in half with a Dremel and the cable/wire rope core itself was rusty and stuck. Unhooked it at the trans side and no movement there either. Unhooked it at the throttle-side and couldn't move it in or out. Anyway, it was fully slack in the WOT position.
![how to install transmission kickdown cable how to install transmission kickdown cable](https://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n497/Somalia757/WP_000102_zps44ab2ed7.jpg)
Not really a kickdown cable, more of a throttle position cable to tell the trans what the engine throttle position is at any given time. Then a few days ago, just before I gave up on the trans completely, I checked the "kickdown" cable. Started looking for a 5.3 and 4L60E since had been wanting to do a vortec swap anyway and figure now that the A440F was toast it would be a good time to do the swap. No change after Rodney flushe or party trick. Thought trans was toast.ĭid some reading here on the forums on FJ62s with similar symptoms and did a Rodney Flush and party trick (party trick in 3rd gear because I couldn't go fast enough for the trans to shift into 4th without having to slow for curves). But 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th would only happen at redline. Reverse still worked, as did 1st (L) and could still manually shift to 2nd. It got progressively worse.Īfter a few days it was basically undriveable because it would only shift until the engine was at redline or very close to it I'd have to keep on the throttle until the engine reached redline or close it it before trans would upshift. About a month ago I noticed it started upshifting later and later in the rpm. Little background: 1988 FJ62 172k miles, all stock.